How to Build a Korean Skincare Routine: What Goes Where?
If you’ve ever stood in front of your bathroom mirror holding three serums, a toner pad and a moisturiser, wondering what on earth goes first, you’re definitely not alone. 😅
A skincare routine can feel overwhelming.
What do I use? Do I need something for every step? What order do I use everything in? And do I really need a 10-step Korean skincare routine?
The good news is that skincare really doesn’t need to be that complicated.
The general rule of thumb is to apply your products from the thinnest texture to the thickest — with the exception of certain targeted actives that may need to be used at specific times or in a particular way.
Before we break down every step, here’s the simple version.
Your Skincare Routine at a Glance ✨
Not sure what goes where? Here’s the simple version:
AM ROUTINE ☀️
Cleanser → Toner or Toner Pads → Essence → Serum → Moisturiser → SPF
PM ROUTINE 🌙
Oil Cleanser → Cleanser → Toner or Toner Pads → Essence → Serum or Treatment → Moisturiser
Remember: You don’t need every step. Choose the steps and products that make sense for your skin, your concerns and your lifestyle.
Now let’s look at what each step actually does — and whether you really need it.
Step 1: Oil Cleanser
Think of your oil cleanser as the first clean.
This is the step that helps dissolve makeup, sunscreen, excess oil and the buildup your skin has collected throughout the day.
If you wear makeup or SPF, especially water-resistant SPF, an oil cleanser or cleansing balm in the evening is a brilliant first step.
Think of it as: let’s get the makeup and SPF off and get the skin most of the way clean.
Then we go in for round two.
Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser
Now we want a completely fresh, clean canvas.
Your water-based cleanser removes the remaining residue, sweat and impurities from the skin, preparing it for everything that comes next.
There is very little point in applying beautiful serums and creams to skin that hasn’t been properly cleansed.
A double cleanse is generally most useful in the evening.
In the morning, many people are perfectly happy with one gentle cleanse — and some dry or sensitive skin types may prefer simply rinsing with water.
The goal is clean skin, not tight, squeaky or stripped skin.
Step 3: Toner or Toner Pads
Your skin is clean. Now what?
This is where toner comes in.
Modern Korean toners are often very different from the harsh, alcohol-heavy toners many of us remember from years ago.
Depending on the formula, they can help hydrate, soothe, balance or gently exfoliate the skin.
So, should you use a liquid toner or toner pads?
It really depends on what you want from the step.
A liquid toner is a lovely choice if your focus is hydration, soothing and layering moisture into the skin.
You can apply it with your hands and gently press it into the skin.
Toner pads are convenient and can be more targeted.
Depending on the formula, they may help with texture, pores, excess oil, gentle exfoliation, soothing or hydration.
And no, you don’t necessarily need both.
Some people use a liquid toner daily and toner pads only a few times a week.
Others love the convenience of pads and use them as their toner step.
Some hydrating toner pads can even be left on targeted areas for a few minutes as a quick mini-mask.
The important thing is to look at what the product actually does.
Not all toner pads are exfoliating, and not all liquid toners are purely hydrating.
Choose the one that has a purpose in your routine.
Step 4: Essence
An essence is usually a lightweight, hydrating step that sits between toner and serum.
Think of this step as giving your freshly cleansed skin an extra layer of hydration and preparing it for the treatment products that follow.
Do you absolutely need an essence? No.
Can it be a beautiful addition to a dehydrated, dull or barrier-focused routine? Absolutely.
This is one of those steps that can take a basic routine and give it that extra boost of hydration and glow.
Step 5: Serum or Ampoule
Now we treat.
This is where you choose products according to what your skin actually needs.
Are you targeting dehydration?
Fine lines and loss of firmness?
Pigmentation and uneven skin tone?
Breakouts and congestion?
Redness and sensitivity?
Dullness and lack of glow?
Your serum or ampoule step is where targeted ingredients can really come into play.
You also don’t need to use every serum you own at the same time.
You can use one serum in the morning and another in the evening, alternate them on different days, or layer compatible serums if your skin enjoys it.
More is not always more.
A carefully chosen serum that targets your actual skin concerns is far more valuable than five random serums with no real purpose in your routine.
Step 6: Moisturiser
Now we lock everything in.
Your moisturiser helps support the skin barrier, reduce moisture loss and keep the skin feeling comfortable, hydrated and protected.
The right texture will depend on your skin.
Oily or combination skin may love a lightweight gel cream, while dry or dehydrated skin may prefer something richer and more nourishing.
And yes, oily skin still needs moisturiser.
The key is finding the right formula and texture for you.
Step 7: SPF — The Most Important Morning Step ☀️
If I could convince everyone to use one skincare product consistently, it would be sunscreen.
SPF is the final step of your morning skincare routine and one of the most important things you can do to protect your skin from premature ageing, pigmentation and sun damage.
There is little point in investing in beautiful products to treat pigmentation and signs of ageing while leaving your skin unprotected from UV exposure every day.
Your morning routine should always finish with SPF.
Every. Single. Day. ☀️
What Changes in the Evening?
Your evening routine follows much of the same structure, but you can leave out the SPF and introduce targeted treatments where appropriate.
A simple evening routine might look like:
Oil Cleanser → Cleanser → Toner → Essence → Serum or Treatment → Moisturiser
Your evening routine is also where products such as retinoids, exfoliating acids and certain intensive treatments are usually introduced.
Masks can be added according to their instructions and your skin’s needs.
Some are quick 10–20 minute treatments.
Some hydrogel masks are designed to be worn for several hours or overnight.
And some are simply a beautiful hydration boost when your skin needs a little extra love.
Where Do Actives Fit Into the Routine?
This is where things can become slightly more complicated.
Not every active should simply be layered into every routine, every day.
Retinol and Other Vitamin A Products
These are generally used in the evening.
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the effects of UV exposure, and some retinoid ingredients are also less stable in light.
Start slowly — often once or twice a week — and gradually increase frequency according to the product strength and how well your skin tolerates it.
Always use SPF consistently during the day.
Reedle Shot Treatments
Reedle Shot products are generally best incorporated into an evening routine, following the specific instructions for the particular strength and formula.
Because these products create an intensive skin-stimulating sensation and may temporarily increase sensitivity, I prefer keeping the routine around them simple rather than piling on multiple strong actives.
The frequency depends on the particular Reedle Shot product, so always check the instructions rather than assuming every version is used in the same way.
Exfoliating Acids
AHA and BHA exfoliants are often easiest to use in an evening routine.
They do not necessarily need to be used every day.
Depending on the strength of the formula and your skin tolerance, a few times per week may be more than enough.
Be careful about combining multiple strong exfoliating products or layering them with other potentially irritating actives.
And, as always, use SPF during the day.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C can be used in the morning and pairs beautifully with your daily sunscreen routine.
Apply it during your serum step, followed by moisturiser if needed and then SPF.
Some people also use Vitamin C in the evening, but I personally love it as part of a morning routine for antioxidant support alongside sunscreen.
Do I Really Need a 10-Step Skincare Routine?
Absolutely not.
Some people genuinely love skincare.
They enjoy taking their time, layering their products, using masks and turning their routine into a ritual.
Other people want to wash their face, apply a few good products and get into bed.
Both are completely fine.
If I had to strip a routine down to the basics, my four essential categories would be:
Cleanser → Serum → Moisturiser → SPF
You can absolutely build a very effective routine around four carefully chosen products.
The extra steps can add more hydration, glow and targeted support, but a smaller routine can still achieve beautiful results when the products are well chosen.
I would much rather see you using fewer products where every single one has a real purpose than buying ten products because you feel like you are supposed to have a 10-step routine.
Ultimately, it comes down to the individual: your skin, your concerns, your lifestyle, your budget and, importantly, what you will actually enjoy using consistently.
Your Routine Should Work for You 🌸
Skincare is personal.
At first, choosing products and understanding ingredients can feel overwhelming.
But once you understand what your skin needs, which textures you enjoy and which steps suit your lifestyle, your skincare routine can become a healthy habit and something you genuinely look forward to.
You don’t need every trending product.
You don’t need ten steps.
You just need the right products, in the right order, for your skin.
And if you’re not sure where to start, send me a message at Meadow.
Tell me about your skin, your main concerns, what you’re currently using and what you’d like to achieve, and I can help you narrow down the options and build a routine that makes sense for you.
Nicole 🌸
Meadow Cape Town