RETINOL VS RETINAL, REEDLE SHOTS & SPICULES: A SIMPLE KOREAN SKINCARE GUIDE
If you’ve ever tried to navigate Korean skincare and figure out the difference between retinol, retinal, retinoids, Reedle Shots, spicules and exosomes and ended up more confused than when you started… welcome. You’re in good company.
One of the things I love most about K-beauty is how innovative it is.
We’re constantly seeing clever new ingredients, formulations and delivery technologies — but somewhere along the way, skincare has also become incredibly complicated.
Even working with these products every day, there are questions that aren’t always as black and white as they sound.
I have a breakout. Should I use my retinal tonight — or should I give my skin a break?
Retinol helps with breakouts… but we’re also told not to use strong actives on irritated skin.
Retinal is stronger than retinol… but does that automatically make it better?
A Reedle Shot feels prickly… but is that an active ingredient, an exfoliant or something completely different?
And then we add spicules and exosomes into the conversation.
It’s a lot.
So this is not going to be a scientific paper filled with terminology you need a chemistry degree to understand.
Instead, I want to break it down the way I think skincare should be explained: simply.
What is it? What does it actually do? Who is it for? When should you use it? And when should you leave your skin alone?
Because once you understand those basics, choosing the right product — and knowing how to use it — becomes a whole lot easier.
RETINOL VS RETINAL — LET’S MAKE THIS SIMPLE
First, the good news: you really don’t need to understand all the chemistry behind retinoids to use them well.
Retinol and retinal are both forms of Vitamin A used in skincare, and they’re trying to achieve many of the same things.
They can help with fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, uneven skin tone, pigmentation, congestion, clogged pores, breakouts and overall skin quality.
So why do we have both?
Think 👉 Retinal has a shorter journey
When you put retinol onto your skin, your skin needs to convert it before it can use it in its active form.
RETINOL → RETINAL → ACTIVE FORM
Retinal is already one step further along:
RETINAL → ACTIVE FORM
And honestly, that is probably all you need to remember.
Because retinal has one less conversion to make, it can generally work more efficiently than retinol.
SO RETINAL IS STRONGER THAN RETINOL?
Generally, yes — but there’s a big BUT.
Seeing the word retinal on a product doesn’t automatically tell you how strong that product is.
The actual strength and experience also depend on how much retinal or retinol is in it, how it has been formulated and delivered, what other ingredients are included and — importantly — what your own skin can tolerate.
This is why comparing two products isn’t always as simple as looking at the percentage on the bottle.
And it’s also why:
Stronger isn’t necessarily better.
WHEN MIGHT RETINOL BE BETTER?
Retinol is not the “bad” or outdated version of retinal.
It can be a great option if you’re completely new to retinoids, your skin tends to be sensitive, you’ve previously found retinoids irritating or you simply want to introduce Vitamin A slowly.
AND WHEN MIGHT RETINAL MAKE MORE SENSE?
Retinal can be a lovely next step if your skin is already comfortable with retinoids, or if you’re looking for something more targeted for visible signs of ageing, texture, pigmentation or congestion.
But retinal being more potent does not mean you should automatically start with the strongest retinal you can find.
Your skin doesn’t hand out prizes for surviving the strongest product. 😂
The goal is results without constantly irritating your skin barrier.
BUT AREN’T RETINOL AND RETINAL MAINLY FOR ANTI-AGEING?
This is probably one of the biggest misunderstandings around retinoids.
We tend to associate them with wrinkles and mature skin.
But retinoids can do much more than that.
They influence how skin cells behave and turn over, which is why they can also be incredibly useful for clogged pores, blackheads, congestion, texture and acne-prone skin.
Which brings us to the question that causes SO much confusion…
“I’M BREAKING OUT. DO I USE MY RETINOL TONIGHT?”
The answer is:
Maybe.
And before you throw your phone at me 😂, there is a very simple way to think about it.
The question isn’t only:
“Do I have pimples?”
The better question is:
“What does the rest of my skin feel like?”
If you’ve got a couple of ordinary pimples, some blackheads or congestion but the rest of your skin feels comfortable, having a breakout doesn’t automatically mean you need to stop your retinoid.
Remember, retinoids are actually used to help manage acne and clogged pores.
But if your face is burning, stinging, very red, peeling excessively, feeling raw or suddenly extremely sensitive…
That’s a different conversation.
Those are signs that your skin may be irritated or your barrier may be struggling.
Think 👉 Pimple vs angry skin
A PIMPLE:
Your retinoid may actually be helpful.
ANGRY, IRRITATED SKIN:
Your skin may need a recovery night.
And a recovery night isn’t “doing nothing.”
Gentle cleansing, hydration, barrier-supporting ingredients and a good moisturiser can sometimes be exactly what your skin needs.
BUT WHAT IF THE RETINOL CAUSED THE BREAKOUT?
Now we need to talk about one of those skincare words you hear all the time:
Purging.
WHAT ACTUALLY IS PURGING?
Very simply, when you introduce an ingredient such as a retinoid that affects skin cell turnover, spots that were already beginning to form underneath the surface can sometimes appear sooner than they otherwise would have.
Think 👉 your skin is speeding up a process that was already happening.
That can temporarily look like your skin is getting worse before it gets better.
You may notice more small pimples, whiteheads, blackheads or congestion coming to the surface.
And it will often happen in areas where you’re already prone to breaking out.
PURGING OR JUST BREAKING OUT?
If you’ve recently introduced a retinoid and you’re getting some extra spots in your usual breakout areas, while the rest of your skin feels relatively normal, it could be an adjustment period.
But if you’ve suddenly developed spots in places you never normally break out, or your skin is also burning, itching, extremely red, swollen, very dry or peeling excessively, don’t automatically tell yourself:
“It’s fine. I’m purging.”
Your skin may actually be irritated or the product may simply not be agreeing with you.
And please don’t “push through” everything.
Purging isn’t a badge of honour.
You don’t need to destroy your skin barrier to prove your retinol is working.
Think 👉
PURGING:
Possible temporary increase in spots after introducing a turnover-accelerating active, often where you already tend to break out.
ORDINARY BREAKOUT:
Could happen for countless reasons and isn’t automatically caused by — or fixed by — your retinoid.
IRRITATION:
Burning, stinging, significant redness, excessive peeling, itching or skin that suddenly feels extremely sensitive.
And sometimes you genuinely can’t tell immediately which one you’re dealing with.
Rather than adding more products to try to “fix” it overnight, simplify things.
Because sometimes the answer isn’t another active.
Sometimes it’s moisturiser. 😂
OKAY… SO WHAT ON EARTH ARE SPICULES?
Spicules have become one of those words we’re seeing more and more in Korean skincare.
And if you’ve assumed spicules, Reedle Shots and micro-needles are basically another type of retinol…
They’re not.
Think 👉 microscopic skincare needles
Spicules are incredibly tiny, needle-like structures used in certain skincare formulas. They are often derived from marine sponge and are so small that you can’t see them individually.
When you apply some spicule products, you may feel that distinctive prickly or tingly sensation.
That’s why.
But here’s the important part:
Spicules aren’t necessarily the ingredient treating your pigmentation, wrinkles, dehydration or breakouts.
Think of them more as part of the delivery system.
They interact with the very outer layer of the skin and can create temporary microscopic pathways that help enhance the delivery of skincare ingredients.
Think 👉 they prepare the road
Imagine your skincare ingredients are trying to get somewhere.
The spicule technology helps prepare the pathway.
The ingredients are what travel along it.
That’s why what is actually in your spicule product — and what you use with it — matters.
SO WHAT IS A REEDLE SHOT?
VT’s Reedle Shot range is probably one of the best-known examples of this K-beauty technology.
The original Reedle Shots come in different intensities, including 50, 100, 300, 700 and 1000, which is why you’ll hear people talking about starting low and gradually working their way up.
But VT also makes different targeted versions of its Reedle technology.
Hydrop Reedle Shot
Think 👉 hydration
Collagen Reedle Shot
Think 👉 firmness + elasticity
Vita-Light Reedle Shot
Think 👉 brightening
Reti-A Reedle Shot
Think 👉 retinoid + ageing concerns
Black Truffle Reedle Shot
Think 👉 nourishing + firming/elasticity care
So suddenly the Reedle Shot concept makes a lot more sense.
REEDLE SHOT ISN’T THE TREATMENT GOAL
Think of Reedle technology as the vehicle.
Then ask:
What else is inside the vehicle?
Hydration? Collagen? Vitamin C? Retinoid? Soothing ingredients?
THAT tells you what that particular product is trying to achieve.
WHY DOES REEDLE SHOT GO ON FIRST?
VT generally instructs you to use Reedle Shot on clean skin, early in your routine.
The Reedle technology is designed to help create an environment that enhances skincare delivery.
Think 👉 Reedle first, skincare follows
This is also why what you put on afterwards matters.
Hydrating serum? Lovely.
Peptides? Potentially a great pairing.
Soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients? Absolutely.
But this is NOT necessarily an invitation to think:
“Excellent. My skin is primed. Let me now apply every strong active I own.” 😂
If you’re using something like Reti-A Reedle Shot, you’re already using a retinoid-focused formula.
Always ask:
What have I already put on my face?
CAN I USE SPICULES WHEN I’M BREAKING OUT?
This is where our answer changes slightly from the retinol conversation.
Retinoids themselves can actually help with acne and clogged pores.
Spicules physically stimulate the outer skin, so I’d be more cautious when the skin is already very inflamed, broken or irritated.
Think 👉 calm congestion vs angry breakout
Blackheads, texture, congestion or acne-prone skin that otherwise feels calm?
A suitable spicule product may still have a place in your routine.
A very swollen, painful, inflamed or damaged pimple?
You probably don’t need to attack that particular spot with microscopic needles. 😂
Skin that is burning, peeling, raw or generally furious with you?
Skip the spicules.
That’s a recovery night.
WHY DOES AN EXOSOME SHOT FEEL SO DIFFERENT FROM RETINOL?
This was actually one of the things that helped me understand the difference.
When I use something like an Exosome Shot or a stronger spicule treatment, afterwards my skin can almost feel as though I’ve had a really thorough resurfacing treatment.
There’s that prickly sensation during application, and afterwards my skin can feel incredibly smooth — almost like I’ve had a deep exfoliation.
Retinol and retinal don’t feel like that to me at all.
And there’s a reason.
Think 👉 immediate sensation vs long-term skin behaviour
With a spicule-style product, you’re physically interacting with and stimulating the outer layers of the skin using those microscopic needle-like structures.
So you may actually feel the treatment while you’re using it.
Retinol and retinal work differently.
They influence processes within the skin over time.
You don’t need to feel a retinoid working for it to be doing its job.
Burning, peeling and stinging are NOT signs that your retinol is working better.
They’re signs that your skin may be irritated.
And while an Exosome Shot can leave you with that wonderfully smooth, resurfaced feeling, it isn’t exfoliating your skin in exactly the same way as an AHA, BHA or traditional exfoliant.
Think:
physical micro-stimulation + enhanced skincare delivery + a resurfaced feeling
rather than simply:
deep exfoliation.
OKAY… WHAT ACTUALLY ARE EXOSOMES?
Another K-beauty word that sounds far more complicated than we need it to. 😂
Think 👉 tiny messengers
Our cells communicate with each other, and exosomes are tiny biological packages involved in carrying signals and materials between cells.
This has created a lot of excitement around exosomes and skin regeneration.
You’ll see exosome skincare marketed around skin renewal, firmness, elasticity, texture, hydration, recovery and overall skin quality.
But this is an emerging area of skincare research.
The evidence isn’t at the same level as retinoids, which have decades of research behind them.
So yes, it’s exciting.
No, I’m not throwing my retinol in the bin. 😂
THEN WHAT IS AN EXOSOME SHOT?
Here’s our vehicle analogy again.
EXOSOME = the messenger/cargo concept
while an Exosome Shot product can also use microscopic delivery technology.
Medicube’s Exosome Shot range is a great example of this. These products combine targeted skincare ingredients with tiny, needle-like spicules that create that distinctive prickly sensation when you apply them.
So again, the “Exosome Shot” isn’t necessarily telling you what skin concern the product is treating.
You need to look at what else is in the formula.
WHAT DO THE NUMBERS MEAN?
You may see Medicube Exosome Shots with numbers such as 2000 and 7500.
Think 👉 different intensity levels
The bigger number doesn’t mean “better” — it means you’re moving into a more intensive spicule treatment.
If you’re new to spicules, you don’t necessarily need to jump straight to the highest level.
As always: start with what your skin can comfortably tolerate, not the biggest number on the bottle.
SO WHAT ABOUT THE DIFFERENT FORMULAS?
This is where strength and skin concern become two separate decisions.
For example, at Meadow Skincare I stock:
Medicube PDRN Pink Exosome Shot 7500
Think 👉 PDRN + glow + firmness + skin renewal
This combines the more intensive 7500 Exosome Shot experience with a PDRN-focused formula, making it particularly appealing if your concerns are ageing, texture, firmness and that healthy, glowy finish.
Medicube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot 7500
Think 👉 blemishes + uneven tone + texture
This uses the same 7500 intensity but takes the formula in a completely different direction, with azelaic acid aimed more towards blemish-prone skin, uneven tone and texture.
And this is actually the perfect example of what we’ve been talking about.
Both say “Exosome Shot 7500” — but they’re not doing exactly the same job.
The 7500 tells you about the intensity of the spicule treatment.
The rest of the formula tells you what you’re actually targeting.
Think 👉 choose your skin concern first, then choose an appropriate strength.
OKAY, BUT WHICH ONE SHOULD I ACTUALLY USE?
We’ve done the science.
We’ve survived the terminology. 😂
Now let’s make this practical.
“I’VE NEVER USED A RETINOID BEFORE.”
Start gently.
Choose a beginner-friendly retinol or lower-strength retinal and start just 1–2 evenings a week.
Give your skin time to adjust before increasing how often you use it.
“I ALREADY USE RETINOL AND MY SKIN LOVES IT.”
You might consider stepping up to retinal, increasing the strength of your current retinoid or looking at a more advanced formulation.
But don’t upgrade simply because you can.
If your current product is giving you great results, there isn’t always a reason to change it.
“MY MAIN CONCERN IS WRINKLES AND FIRMNESS.”
Retinol or retinal would be my starting point.
Peptides, PDRN, collagen-focused Korean skincare and spicule treatments can complement an anti-ageing routine beautifully — but I wouldn’t abandon a good retinoid simply because something newer and shinier has arrived.
“MY MAIN CONCERN IS BLACKHEADS, CONGESTION OR BREAKOUTS.”
Don’t automatically avoid retinoids.
Remember:
A breakout doesn’t automatically mean stop. Angry, irritated skin is different.
“I HAVE SENSITIVE SKIN.”
Slow down.
Start with a gentle formulation, use it less frequently and keep the rest of your routine simple.
You don’t need retinol + exfoliating acids + spicules + Vitamin C + everything else on the same night.
Your skin isn’t a group project. 😂
“I WANT THAT SMOOTH, RESURFACED FEELING.”
This may be where spicule, Reedle or Exosome Shot-style treatments appeal to you.
Just remember:
Feeling more doesn’t automatically mean doing more.
“CAN I USE BOTH?”
Potentially, yes.
But particularly if you’re new to either one, I’d rather use them on different nights.
For example:
Monday: Retinoid
Tuesday: Recovery + hydration
Wednesday: Spicule treatment
Thursday: Recovery + hydration
You don’t need an active every night.
THREE RULES I WANT YOU TO REMEMBER
If you forget absolutely everything else in this article, remember these:
1. Start low and go slow.
2. Irritation is not proof that a product is working.
3. Wear SPF every single morning.
That last one isn’t optional when you’re investing this much effort into your skin.
SO… WHAT SHOULD I ACTUALLY CHOOSE?
Here are a few Korean skincare options available at Meadow Skincare to make things even easier.
🌱 “I’M COMPLETELY NEW TO RETINOL”
Mary&May Retinol 0.1% Bakuchiol Cica Serum
A lovely starting point with 0.1% retinol, alongside bakuchiol and soothing Cica.
Think 👉 gentle introduction to retinol
✨ “I’M READY FOR A LITTLE MORE”
Anua Nano Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum
This moves up to 0.3% nano-encapsulated retinol, alongside niacinamide and barrier-supporting ingredients.
Think 👉 a step up for fine lines, texture + uneven tone
Another option is VT Cica Reti-A Essence 0.3, combining 0.3% retinol with Cica-focused ingredients.
🌙 “I WANT RETINAL RATHER THAN RETINOL”
VT Retinal Peptide Capsule Cream
A great example of incorporating retinal into your moisturising step rather than adding another separate serum.
Think 👉 retinal treatment + night cream in one
🚀 “I’M READY FOR SOMETHING MORE ADVANCED”
K-Secret Seoul 1988 Advanced Shot: Retinal Liposome 12% + Black Rice
Here’s a perfect example of why percentages can be confusing.
That 12% does NOT mean 12% pure retinal.
It refers to the retinal liposome complex used in the formulation.
Think 👉 advanced retinal treatment
🪡 “I WANT RETINOL AND SPICULES”
Mary&May Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream
This combines spicules + retinol + PDRN.
Think 👉 skin stimulation + retinol renewal in one treatment
💫 “I WANT REEDLE TECHNOLOGY BUT RETINOL ISN’T MY MAIN CONCERN”
Choose according to what your skin needs:
Hydrop Reedle Shot 👉 hydration
Collagen Reedle Shot 👉 firmness + elasticity
Vita-Light Reedle Shot 👉 brightening
Reti-A Reedle Shot 👉 retinoid-focused care
Remember:
Reedle = the technology.
The formula = the skin concern.
🧬 “I WANT TO TRY AN EXOSOME SHOT”
Medicube PDRN Pink Exosome Shot Serum 7500
A more intensive spicule-style experience paired with a PDRN-focused formula.
There’s also the Medicube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot 7500, taking the same concept in a completely different direction.
Another perfect example of why “Exosome Shot” doesn’t tell you the whole story.
👀 “I ONLY WANT TO TARGET AROUND MY EYES”
You don’t necessarily need to introduce a full-face retinoid.
Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: Ginseng + Retinal is a lovely targeted retinal option for the eye area.
Think 👉 start small and target where you actually need it
QUICK QUESTIONS
IS RETINAL STRONGER THAN RETINOL?
Generally, retinal can be more potent because it requires one fewer conversion step before reaching the active form used by the skin.
CAN I USE RETINOL WHEN I’M BREAKING OUT?
Potentially, yes.
Retinoids are actually used to help manage acne and clogged pores.
A breakout is not automatically the same thing as irritated or barrier-damaged skin.
IS VT REEDLE SHOT A RETINOL?
No.
Reedle Shot uses microscopic Reedle/spicule-style technology.
Some Reedle products contain retinoids, but Reedle technology itself is not retinol.
CAN I USE REEDLE SHOT AND RETINOL TOGETHER?
They can exist together — and some products are actually formulated with both.
But if you’re new to either one, introducing them separately or alternating nights is a much easier way to see what your skin tolerates.
ARE SPICULES THE SAME AS MICRONEEDLING?
No.
Although the “microscopic needle” analogy helps explain the concept, topical spicules are not the same treatment as professional microneedling.
CAN I USE REEDLE SHOT ON ACNE-PRONE SKIN?
Acne-prone skin doesn’t automatically rule it out.
But I’d be cautious over skin that is broken, very inflamed, raw or significantly irritated.
ONE LAST THING FROM ME…
If you’ve made it this far, congratulations — because when I started writing this, even I wanted someone to explain all of this to me in normal English. 😂
And that’s really why I wanted to write this particular blog.
I work with these products every day, I use them on my own skin, and I talk about them with customers constantly — yet Korean skincare is evolving so quickly that the terminology can make something relatively simple sound ridiculously complicated.
The more I’ve learnt about skincare, the more I’ve realised that more isn’t always better — and stronger isn’t always better either.
I’ve definitely had those nights where I’ve stood in front of my skincare thinking:
I’ve got a breakout… do I use my retinal? Do I leave it alone? Do I Reedle Shot it? 😂
And hopefully after reading this, that decision feels a little less confusing for you too.
Listen to your skin.
Introduce things slowly.
Don’t chase irritation because you think it means a product is working.
And please, please wear your SPF.
Most importantly, skincare should be something you enjoy, not something that makes you feel like you need a science degree just to wash your face.
And if you’re still staring at all the options thinking,
“Nicole, I still have absolutely no idea which one I need…”
Message me.
That’s exactly what I’m here for. 🌿
Nicole x
Meadow Skincare